Living History in Rome day by day

•May 11, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Living in Rome has proved to be an exciting adventure over the past 20 years, more interesting than I could have imagined.  (And way more interesting than what appears on reality TV- House Hunters- however entertaining that was). Now, as the summer season is upon us- with several overlapping programs and a slew of documentaries to film- I can’t help but reflect on the many ways I get to live history daily in Rome.

Latin dead? Not when I can host a Latin tweet up #LTNL  every couple of weeks with colleagues and anyone interested in speaking Latine.  (In less than a month, students will attend our upcoming summer Latin program, coming from schools big and small, from Stanford to Steubenville. Our guru is Nancy Llewellyn of SALVI: www.latin.org).

Image

EUR, Palazzo dei Congressi (roof)

It’s been said frequently that Rome is a living museum.  Even more amazing is just how much that truism is indebted to the efforts of Mussolini and his forced connection to the ancient concept of romanita‘ or Romanness.  So I’ve steered our intrepid NEU film students to the centro storico, Foro Italico, EUR, and peripheral neighborhoods to record the impact of Fascist architecture and urban planning in Rome past and present.  #NEURome12

Palazzo Altieri, stairwell

Connecting the dots.  The majority of a unique set of marble panels once decorating the portico surrounding the Temple of Hadrian in the Campus Martius are to be found in Palazzo Massimo, Capitoline Museums, and Museo Nazionale di Napoli.  But the other day, visiting a friend and collaborator from Banca Finnat in Palazzo Altieri, I caught a glimpse in the staircase of another one of the same panel set.  Just when you though you had seen it all.

Not just archaeology and Roman culture but cultural heritage. All in all working beyond my initial range and training in archaeology to concentrate on heritage matters and a larger scale and range of participants has been rewarding. In a short time we’ve taken Unlisted2011 conference ideas and made concrete projects, such as a conservation project in Ostia Antica and FastiONLINE videos.  I look forward to further collaboration with this year’s participants (VIDEOS 2012 conference are already online).

Chariot cruising

Riding in a chariot for the day is great work, if you can swing it. So many film documentaries to do and so little time.  You’ll get no complaints from me riding around in a chariot in the Alban hills and talking about the thrill of that experience in front of a camera.

Protecting the past– It’s truly special to be able to assist in saving Hadrian’s villa petition from the projected landfill- an ongoing effort- and pleased we are up to nearly 5000 petition signers. Sign up!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Sunlight time machine.

  • April 21st, Rome’s birthday.  Taking the family to see the sunlight pass through the Pantheon oculus and strike the entrance of the Pantheon, a one-a-year event.
  • Then, heading to the Circus Maximus to mix with the Romans of the 2nd century AD.

Ancient reflections:

  • After heavy rain-always, always something new, something special to observe, e.g., Column of Marcus Aurelius.
  • Fendi Fondation’s annual experimental art show followed by drinks in the Fendi gallery, which contains a section of Trajan’s Basilica Ulpia.
  • Taking an American family friend to the Colosseum hypogeum and arena floor on her 21st birthday,  though I don’t think she could appreciate it that day… The carnage apparently took place the night before.

Hadrian’s Villa and the proposed landfill- the straw that broke the camel’s back

•March 15, 2012 • 2 Comments

The shocking decision to create a massive landfill within a few hundred meters of Hadrian’s Villa, one of most well known, important cultural heritage sites in the world is, to say the least, astonishing.  See last December’s CBS news video for a summary of the landfill project.

In light of the recent pummeling from the media that Italy has undergone due to the lamentable condition of the heritage management at Pompeii and the frequent fragments falling off the Colosseum in the past couple of years, it seems even more shocking to learn about the new plight of yet another world-famous site.

And, of course, in the face of it, one frequently asks, but what can I do?  What difference can I make?  With the decision announced late last year (to be confirmed this spring), there was not much time to act, either.   Luckily, a dear colleague and friend, Prof. Bernard Frischer, picked up the torch, as it were, and in a few minutes created a petition on ipetition, reaching out, first, to colleagues in the fields of classics and archaeology.  Early on, he also contacted my organization, asking us to sponsor the initiative; I quickly agreed.  Between Frischer’s outreach and my AIRC colleagues’ tweeting and blogging, we have been happy to see the numbers to quickly grow to almost 2800 signatures in just 2 weeks’ time.   The petition is starting to have a life of its own- and we’ve done our part to personally deposit, for the record, the signatures with the proper authorities in Rome (the end result of the petition).

Why are people so upset?   Why do they care, regardless of nationality?  Just read some of the comments on the ipetition, from students and members of the public to esteemed professors of Oxford Jas Elsner and Salvatore Settis of La Normale di Pisa to organizations like World Monuments Fund.

One look at Hadrian’s Villa from satellite photos, or the many, famous “plastico” models of the site, or, if you are lucky enough, a trip to the site, make you understand why. (See this great, academic site for recent studies of Hadrian’s Villa).

The emperor Hadrian’s organic creation of space over 250 acres represents some of the best examples of Roman architecture at the height of the empire.   You can’t help but fall in love with the site, surrounded by olive and cypress trees, isolated from the effects of urban development.  (Read UNESCO’s short summary of the site.)

Let’s put this landfill project into perspective with what’s going on with cultural heritage around the world.  A recent assessment of China has revealed the devastating effect of unchecked urban expansion on heritage sites (circa 44,000 heritage sites and monuments lost). Social unrest and war threatens sites in Syria, Iraq, Afghanistan, Egypt, and Libya.  Back in Italy, so many of the sites are at a critical juncture, after so many years of comprehensive neglect and/or prolonged exposure after excavations (from Pompeii to Ostia Antica).  A lack of comprehensive management plans and lack of implementation of funds toward the critically-needed daily care of sites have led the public at large to conclude that Italy does not care about its heritage, even as the number of tourists is rapidly increasing in the same sites.  The reality is vastly more complicated than these brief observations.  While funding is challenged, new private sponsorship is on the horizon (e.g., Colosseum, though not without problems of implementation).  And there are many success stories.  In our upcoming Unlisted 2 conference we’ll talk about the challenges to cultural heritage in archaeological sites worldwide (and some solutions using social media and local financial models concentrating on local communities)  and highlight the success that the Via Appia Antica park has become.  This includes the superb work at Villa dei Quintilii (recently filmed for the newest Woody Allen movie, Nero Fiddled).

Overall, though, Italy is perceived, through its face-value lack of investment in its heritage management (vs. most European countries) ,  the garbage-strewn, often abandoned heritage sites,  rampant graffiti, and less-than-caring attitude of employees at sites– as not consistently caring about its heritage.   And this is despite all of the great work that Italy  and important Italian organizations (e.g. Italia Nostra, FAI) are doing.

On all accounts, it is agreed by those signers of the petition that the landfill will do irreparable harm– not just to the site itself–  but to Italy itself.   This is a PR disaster in the making; Italy must show it can avert this new crisis to its cultural heritage. The Economist recently likened Prime Minister Mario Monti to Cincinnatus who selflessly devoted his life to his country in time of need.  Let’s hope that Cincinnatus can arrive in time from the fields to save one of Italy’s great treasures- Hadrian’s Villa.

Dangerous Cocktail – snow, freezing pigeons, excited crowds don’t mix

•February 16, 2012 • 3 Comments

Still cold here in Rome, but the snow will fade soon into the background of everyone’s memory.  So just a follow up from the lovely walks around the centro the past 2 weekends.  For a refresher, check out these images from February 3 and February 10th (in collaboration with Erica Firpo).

Rome regularly dips down to low temperatures, even freezing, each winter period, but it’s the snow that’s novel-  picturesque and pleasant to see, however fleeting.   I was glad I could go around on my bike to take it all in last weekend.

In antiquity, gladiators were tough and fought all year round but they weren’t the Green Bay Packers that regularly appeared on the frozen tundra before the crowds. Freak snowstorms were noted when they occurred in ancient Rome, as were the more than occasional flood, earthquake, and fire– all challenges to the sustainability of the city.

Walking and biking around, I was struck by 2 things regarding conservation in Rome, beyond the observations made in the press about the prolonged closure of sites and Nth crumbled piece falling from the Colosseum due to the snow.

1. The pigeons roosting in the holes of the the firewall of the Forum of Augustus that faces the Forum Transitorium.  I couldn’t believe it.  Talk about a columbarium! Talk about a 3-alarm heritage at risk issue, to say nothing about the condition of the tuff firewall itself.

Close up details of pigeons roosting within the wall! Resolvable by inserting anti-pigeon spikes.

2. People ignoring the barriers all around the Domitianic Meta Sudans (famously excavated by Prof. Panella of La Sapienza), and parts of the pavilion of Nero around the former Neronian Stagnum.   I know that everyone was excited, but no reason to ignore the barriers, people.

Solutions? I hope to be able to address the pigeon phenomenon at the Forum of Augustus firewall and insignificant fencing around the Meta Sudans with my MiBAC colleagues.  Hoping to make low cost solutions (e.g., insertion of small anti-pigeon spikes in the holes) and more noticeable additions to the low fencing presently around the Meta Sudans area) in the near future. Roma Eterna (if we can just take care of it).

Snow makes ancient Rome into Winter Wonderland

•February 5, 2012 • 5 Comments

February 3 and 4, 2012 have been really special days.  After the snowfall in 2010, I didn’t think we’d get so lucky with a real dump again so soon.  Sure, it made life a bit tricky with the traffic but living in the center I was able to enjoy our location to the utmost and get around without a real commute.

Never one to shirk viewing ancient Rome, I was able to look out onto Campo de’ Fiori then  pop up to the Gianicolo for a glimpse as the snow came down on the 3rd and then over to the Pantheon, though poorly dressed. Feet and hands numb – took a while to get warmed up and dry.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Saturday was another matter, as we dug out every pair of snow pants and mittens and hats.  My wife even cleverly reminded us to wrap plastic bags around our double-socked feet inside our boots to keep them dry.  It worked.

We trudged to Largo Argentina,  the Vittoriano, made snowman #1, then up the Campidoglio with views of the centro and Forum- my favorite view in the city, I’d say.

Then, down to the Via Fori Imperiali, snowman #2, a horrific view of  pigeons nestled in holes that riddle the firewall of the Forum of Augustus (!!!), over to a hot chocolate stop at Massenzio, then to the Colosseum, Arch of Constantine.

Finally, to some sledding in the Circus Maximus (the main objective of the walk for my 10 yr old- it’s what kept her going), and to the Forum Boarium, past the Tiber Island, and back home, by Campo de’ Fiori.
Full day, full stop.  Not sure what tomorrow will bring- fever or more sledding?

(Why Not) Study in Rome?

•December 9, 2011 • 1 Comment

Trick question.

view of the Palatine hill overlooking the Roman Forum

There is no city like Rome in the world– don’t get me started- that offers so much to so many disciplines spanning so many time periods, during which the city was either capital of an empire or center of a major religion. In both cases, both “empires” that form layer upon city to constitute the city’s rich fabric influenced western civilization is so many ways.  What was left behind, from ancient (Testaccio) and medieval garbage dumps (e.g. Montecitorio) to hulking ruinous palatial structures that encompass the entirety of the Palatine hill, in turn covered by Renaissance gardens and vineyards, is a testament to the greatness of Rome.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Today, beyond the classics and study of the history of art and architecture, what does Rome offer? Plenty- a veritable feast for the eyes of the student of graphic design, media/ communications, journalism (travel, politics, culture), studio art, architecture-landscape-urban design, religious studies, anthropology, geology/ volcanology (think about it, the hills of Rome are the accumulation of ash dumped by volcanic eruptions of times past).  Students that study in Rome  at the American Institute for Roman Culture do not just confront collections and see the sites but also, thanks for AIRC’s vast and varied connections and relationships with city and national authorities (e.g. Ministry of Culture, superintendencies) entry into a world of one-of-a-kind experiences, meeting with experts, seeing their projects, and participating.   That is what we do best; that is why I am here.  A quick example is filming history– a fantastic way to engage culture. Another is writing about Rome, but only after gaining access to a site being inaugurated or speaking with some of the top Italian and foreign journalists that reside here.  That’s the difference, not to mention our ongoing AIRC excavation, conservation project, annual conference in cultural heritage, and video production, all of which create a web of related experiences for students in love with Rome, Italian culture, and engaging the past in the contemporary city.

The list goes on.  What we’ve done in our new programs at the American Institute for Roman Culture is promote and foster experiences in Rome’s rich heritage culture that allow study abroad students dig deeper– engaging the past for their own contemporary endeavors.  In colloquial Latinfilm, journalism, ancient Rome and its art and architecture, or for those with advanced background in classics, pushing the limits on a more in-depth level.  Or even allowing you to roll up your sleeves and excavate with us at Ostia Antica (with limited intervention trenches)- a unique experience, in and of itself, to which we marry a related conservation project at Ostia. (For the project, just see this teaser video.)  Talk about a full circle sustainability project. If archaeology is destruction of the archaeological record (thoroughly documented, of course), what more fulfilling experience for archaeology students than have them finish the season with completing a conservation project for the improvement of Ostia!  And don’t take my word for it; our programs director sums it up best here.

Filming the past: conservation matters

•November 28, 2011 • Leave a Comment

What role does video have in cultural heritage preservation?  Quite a lot, I’d have to say.   One thing to keep in mind is that video is a pretty cheap medium (e.g., HD video cameras and a tripod).  So, to get more bang for your buck, a video can say a lot about your heritage project and reach a wider audience than just an academic paper or presentation.  If a picture is worth a 1000 words, what is a good video worth?  Quite a bit more.  You can gain access into the trenches (literally) and explore the ins and outs with the directors, who are contextualizing the issues at hand, finds discovered, and providing a view firsthand of the conservation issues.  This is not just reaching the individual but the mass audience interested in cultural heritage, and it’s that large audience that will have a great impact on the eventual preservation of the site.  And the video is not meant to replace the great scientific work conducted but to enhance it and garner more interest and support in the given project.  Cultural heritage is meant to be seen and experienced, not so easily conveyed with words and photos. (Just see our recent videos for FastiONLINE. )

I was pleased to present on November 26  “Podcasting culture: the role of video in heritage preservation” with my AIRC colleague Alberto Prieto at the recent AUR and BSR-hosted conference “Our Future’s Past“,  a conservation/ cultural heritage conference in Rome, a 3-day conference in Rome.  Among others were colleagues from many disciplines (business, tourism, conservation, archaeology, etc.):  the British School of Rome, most particularly, the Herculaneum Conservation Project, ICCROM (headquarted in Rome), World Monuments Fund, and other individuals, such as Jessica Stewart (Context Rome), Laurie Rush (Dpt. of Defense) who presented at our last year’s Unlisted Conference.

I’ll post a video of our presentation in the coming week!

Mad for Caligula

•November 24, 2011 • 4 Comments

Time for a look at the 12 Caesars again– one in particular– Caligula, though it’s hard to beat Suetonius’ account and Michael Graves’.  Part of the fascination with this Roman emperor is from previous “classic” films (i.e., Caligula, I Claudius) and part from his somewhat enigmatic (not much remains of his actions in the archaeological record) and outrageous, brief reign (37-41).  I’ve covered Gaius (as he was properly known) before in Ancients Behaving Badly (History Channel- Blink productions), a riff on antiquity’s worst rulers, but there’s so much more to say- and I was glad when NorthSouth Productions contacted me about the two hour special they are producing for History Channel.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Of course a  good area to start is the Roman Forum– and place dear to my heart- with our past dig– though the true expert on site of the “Domus Gai” (Caligula’s notorious pad) is Henry Hurst of Cambridge University (recently retired) whom I happily ran into a few days ago in Campo de’ Fiori.  Our work (excavation: post aedem Castoris with colleagues from classics departments at Stanford and Oxford) near Hurst’s site did launch AIRC and its eventual study abroad program, and formalized our relationship with the Italian soprintendency and Ministry of Culture.  So we owe a lot to the domicile of Caligula. Our work revealed, in conjunction with Hurst’s study, that the projecting structures under the Domitianic portico of the so-called Augusteum/ library complex did indeed come very close to the back end of the Castors’ temple. Among bonuses to the dig were the remains of 7th century BC housing! Needless to say there are few places in the world with the complexity of the Forum’s stratigraphy!

So, it was a nice production this November- with filming on the Palatine, as well as a full day at Herculaneum, a beautiful setting for discussing antiquity, especially after the conclusion of the Herculaneum Conservation Project.   I was pleased that a fellow local Roman- Katie Parla is also in the production, filming in Pozzuoli. Looks like a great show- due out this spring!

 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 2,267 other followers